One Room Challenge | Week 3

Garage Edition

Welcome to Week 3 of the Better Homes & Gardens One Room Challenge. For those of you who are new here, I am a guest participant in the One Room Challenge and I am renovating my garage. This week had a slight halt due to Bronchitis, but I’m starting to feel better and kicking it into high gear to accomplish my goals for the week! Goals for the week include:

  • Painting the cabinets
  • Add hardware to cabinets
  • Cut and install countertop
  • Having my logo installed (Already done, refer to above picture!)
  • Install trim
  • Install PRX performance system if arrives in time (Was supposed to be delivered Friday but is delayed now)
  • Finish painting the walls
  • Install End panel, trim, and toe kick on Cabinets

Friday night, I had a burst of energy and got the cabinet end panel cut and installed. You know what’s missing in the image below? Safety gear! This is a good opportunity to chat about what you should be using when working with saws, yes even a jigsaw.

Safety First

  1. Hair should be pulled back
  2. I should be wearing safety goggles, glasses are not sufficient for stopping sawdust or pieces of wood from flying into your eyes
  3. Ear protection
  4. Mask. Seasoned woodworkers would advise you to wear a properly fitted, high efficiency respirator so you can decrease your chances of developing respiratory problems or certain types of cancer.
  5. Fitted clothing (loose fitted clothing can easily become entangled in a power tool
  6. Gloves are used when handling wood but not advised when near rotating blades and other machinery parts where gloves can catch
  7. Protective footwear

Cabinets and Hardware

Then, I finished painting the cabinets and added the hardware. The painting process was easy, as these cabinets were unfinished. I should use a primer but I just used a paint that had paint and primer in one. Believe it or not, I only needed to apply two coats, without a primer and all! I did spray it down with a clear satin polycrylic spray. If you use this product, please be sure to be in a well ventilated area.

There was a slight hiccup with the hardware. Two of the handles weren’t installing level and drove me mad, so I filled in the holes with wood filler and started over. Do you ever have that problem, where you just can’t get it right? It ended up working out, I just had to keep trying.

My focus face, this handle was not going in easy!
You can see I struggled on the middle drawer as well. That’s wood filler you’re seeing (Insert Face Palm)

Don’t worry, I sanded it down and painted over it and you can’t even tell now that I had an oops! Its not a DIY if there isn’t at least one oops involved. Backtracking for a second… Did you see that GIANT sign above?? Southern Oregon Signs made and installed that for me! I promise it looks better in person. Unfortunately for my picture quality, I have a toddler and most of my DIYs happen during nap time and bed time, when low light is an issue. It’s pretty crazy seeing something you created up on the wall like that. 

Plan of Attack

I plan on finishing up the painting next so I can get rid of all of these paint trays and drapes and then starting on the trim work. Once the trim work is done, I’ll tackle the countertop. I’ve been waiting for him to have a day off to help me out because its a bit too heavy for me to hold and cut by myself. Plus, with the cabinets being installed on an L shape, I’ll need to make a miter cut, which I’ve never done with counters before. EEK! I’m going to try to make a template first to cut from so if I make a mistake the first time, I’m not ruining an expensive piece.

I’m hoping the PRX gym system arrives before week 4 starts because I was planning on devoting week 4 to my work bench build. I got my plans for this build from my friend Ben, his instagram handle is: @Bens_diy. He has a highlight bubble that shows you step by step, how to build this!

One Room Challenge Link

I’ll go over how the countertop install went when I get there. In the meantime, check out the other Guest participants and featured designers for the Fall Better Homes & Gardens One Room Challenge. There are some pretty incredible designs and DIYs happening over there!

Have questions? Reach out here!

Disclaimer

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.

One Room Challenge | Week 2

Fall 21′ Garage Edition

Welcome to Week 2 of the One Room Challenge! I’m a few days late to posting here but there was a lot going on to cover. Let’s start off where we left off, shall we?

So, last week we covered the prep work that goes into epoxying your concrete floors. We left off with the concrete etch and letting the concrete dry, do you remember? If not, that’s okay, just head back to my previous blog post for a refresher! Once the floor is completely dry, you will want to repair any cracks or divots in the concrete. I used the Rustoleum Concrete Patch & Repair kit. This is a two part, industrial strength epoxy that permanently bonds concrete. The product states that it won’t shrink or crack and creates an extremely hard surface that is stronger than concrete. The downside is, you have to wait 8 hours after applying, to paint on the epoxy.

Mixing the Rustoleum Concrete Patch & Repair

Your floor should already be clean, structurally sound, and free of dust, dirt, grease, or oil before starting. Mix the components together at a 2:1 ratio. Mix two parts of Part B BASE with 1 part of Part A ACTIVATOR on a clean, flat piece of cardboard until a uniform gray, putty-like consistency is achieved.

Then, using a putty knife, apply the mixture evenly over cracks and divots. Level and finish to a smooth surface.

Only mix what you will use within 30 minutes. If a second layer is needed for larger repairs, apply 1-2 hours after the first layer. Allow to cure for 8 hours before sanding or painting.

8 hours later….

Finally, we are ready to EPOXY!!! I used the Rustoleum Epoxyshield Garage Floor Coating Kit.

I have to say, Rustoleum made this process pretty fool proof. I went directly to their website for a step-by-step tutorial and I felt very confident with tackling this for the first time.

In the above kit, It comes with two pouches of epoxy. Only mix one at a time because you only have about 1.5 hours to apply it once mixed. Each pouch has a Part A pouch and a Part B pouch with a burst seal dividing the two. Mix each pouch individually for 2-3 minutes prior to bursting the seal.

Once mixed, go ahead and tightly roll one end of the pouch towards the middle seal to burst it into the other end. Mix thoroughly for another 2-3 minutes. Once mixed, cut a corner off of the pouch and pour the contents into a paint tray. Refer to above picture for visual. You may have to wait a certain amount of time before applying it to your concrete, depending on your air temperature. It was about 70 degrees outside when I did this, so I waited the recommended time of 30 minutes. The chart is included in the kit.

TIP: Concrete temperature should not be below 55 degrees or above 90 degrees

Now, stir your epoxy another time, as it has been sitting for (30 minutes in my case). Brush on epoxy to edges working in 4′ x 4′ sections at a time. Be sure to keep a wet edge to avoid brush or roller marks. This may be obvious but I’ll say it anyways: It’s best to work from the back of the garage towards an exit to avoid traffic over your freshly epoxied floors.

After brushing on the edges, use a 9″ lint free woven roller with a 3/8 inch or 3/16 inch nap.

After each 4′ x 4′ section, you can throw your decorative color chips. I did not use this on my floors. My husband and I preferred the look without them. Remember, you only have 1-2 hours to apply the epoxy, depending on your air temp, refer to above chart.

Once your entire floor is covered, let it dry at least 24 hours before applying the clear coat.

24 hours later….

Now we’re ready for our Rustoleum Epoxy Shield Clear coat and anti skid additive if desired. This clear coat kit comes with 1 pouch that is supposed to cover 450-500 soft. My garage is 700 sq ft, so I needed two kits. The pouch is just like the epoxy pouch. There is a part A and a part B that you will once again need to mix individually for 2-3 minutes before bursting the seal. Once mixed, roll towards center to break the seal and mix again for another 2-3 minutes.

Cut a corner off of the pouch and pour it into a paint tray. Pour in the anti-skid additive and mix thoroughly. Roll on with a 9″ lint free woven roller with a 3/8 inch or 3/16 inch nap. Let dry for 12-16 hours before light foot traffic and 72 hours before heavy traffic and drive on.

TIP: The anti skid additive will settle to the bottom of the paint tray, stir mixture between rolling.

Look at that Epoxy shine!! You can watch my video tutorial HERE: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CU79WnYprNb/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Let’s wrap up Week 2 of the ORC

After the floors were finished, I then moved on to painting the walls. Since my flooring option was limited to light gray or tan due to stock issues, this changed up my color scheme. I went with a blue/gray ombre wall.

I started by measuring the height of my wall and then deciding how I wanted to divvy up the colors. My walls are 10 feet, so I had plenty of wall to work with. I initially started off with three colors and then decided I wanted more of a faded effect and got three more colors on the same color swatch. The darkest color that I started with was Tempest Skies by Sherwin Williams.

Blending without brush marks was a bit tricky as you can see above. I ended up diluting slightly with water and blending with my hands. You want enough water to blend without having drips.

Slat Wall…

I ended up buying the Verstrack slat wall system by Craftsman. Each slat can hold a maximum of 75 pounds. It recommended using a #10 machine head screw. I made a mistake here using 3 inch screws… You aren’t supposed to use more than 2 inch screws on your interior walls because of ELECTRICAL wires!! Did you know that electrical wires can run horizontally through the studs??

Per code, electricians are supposed to install wires 1.5 inches from the edge of a stud and if you’re calculating for your drywall (1/2 inch). That would give you a maximum screw length of 2 inches to avoid hitting any wires.

Occasionally, electricians will use a metal plate in between the stud and the drywall to protect the wires (refer to image below). But, this does not always happen, so it is best to never use more than a 2 inch screw.

After I finished installing the slat wall (with my tail tucked between my legs after using 3 inch screws for the whole thing 🤦🏻‍♀️), I installed some cabinets. I got some pretty basic and cheap cabinets from the Home Depot Hamilton Beech unfinished collection. My goal was to get the cabinets installed, painted, and countertop installed before the end of week two, but that may have been a little too ambitious of me. I think we did a huge amount of work during week two and I’m walking away proud of what we accomplished!

To summarize, for week two we:

  • Epoxied the floor and added the clear coat
  • Painted the walls and storage rack to match
  • Installed the Slat wall system
  • Installed cabinets
  • Started organizing

Plans for week 3:

  • Paint Cabinets
  • Install countertop
  • Install cabinet hardware
  • Install PRX Profile Pro rack system

In addition to the above list, I still have to build a bike rack that is safe for a carbon fiber bike, install base boards, build a work bench, and build hanging storage.

I was too late in posting to link up for the One Room Challenge, but please be sure to check out everyone else on the One room challenge who did link up. Don’t forget, there are guest participants AND featured participants. Have questions? Reach out HERE!

DISCLAIMER

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.

DIY Aged Bench

This aged bench was a fun weekend project and is an easy woodworking project for beginners! The best part is, because it is meant to look aged, it doesn’t have to be perfect!

Material List: I used select pine for this project

  • 1: 2 x 12 x 8
  • 1: 2 x 4 x 8
  • 1: 2 x 2 x 4 hobby board
  • I did not use this, but you can add a 2 x 4 or 2 x 2 on the bottom as well
  • 2 1/2″ pocket screws or 3″ wood screws (Depending on how you are securing it)
  • Wood glue, I used Titebond
  • Wire brush attachment

Cut List:

  • I wanted my bench to fall short of my king sized bed so I cut my 2 x 12 to 60″
  • Legs: 2 x 4 cut parallel at a 10 degree beveled angles x 4 (Shown in image A)
  • I wanted a total height of 20 inches ( the 2 x 12 is actually 1.5″) so cut the legs at 18.5″
  • Once assembled, I determined where I wanted my 2 x 2 support to be placed and cut them perpendicular at 10 degrees
A: Ends bevel cut and parallel. These should be flush so the bench does not wobble.

Leg Placement

Next, after completing your cut list, you’ll then want to determine leg placement on your seat part of the bench (the 2 x 12 x 60). You can refer to images below for placement. For my bench, I placed my legs 8″ in from the ends and 2″ in from the sides. Use your speed square to ensure they are straight. (Ignore my disaster of a garage please)

Securing the Legs

Next, determine how you want to secure your legs to your bench. I decided to use pocket holes but you can screw in from the top of the bench into the legs. I just didn’t want screw holes on the top of my bench. Mark off where you are placing the legs using your straight edge or speed square.

Remember, I went 8 inches in from the ends and 2 inches in from the sides (image B). I then used my kreg jig to create pocket holes on the insides of the legs (image C). Finally, I used wood glue at the points where the wood was contacting wood (image D).

Image B
Image C
Image D

Then, I secured the legs with my pocket screws (Image E). One thing I love about kreg jig, is they make it fool proof. The screws that come with kreg jigs have a guide on the bottom of the box to help you determine what size you will need. They recommended for a depth of 1 1/2″ to use 2 1/2″ pocket screws. You can refer to image F below. Be sure to wipe away any excess glue.

Image E
Image F

Placing the Support Bar

Once all four legs have been secured, you can determine placement of your support bars. I held up my 2 x 2 against the legs with firm pressure with a level on top and just eyeballed where I wanted it to go. I marked the inside of the 2 x 2, making sure it stayed level and in place (image G). I’m sure there are better and more mathematical ways to approach this, but I’m terrible at math and this worked out just fine. Plus, its aged guys, it doesn’t need to be perfect!

Securing the Support Bar

One tip to remember though, if your legs are at 10 degrees, the support will be at 10 degrees 😉. Cut your support perpendicular, or just follow your marks. Once cut, use this as a guide for your second support. Measure exactly where this will be secured and mark all four of your legs. Secure the supports with wood glue and 2 1/2″ or 3″ wood screws. Be sure to make pilot holes to avoid spitting the wood!

Image G
I used 3″ trim nails to secure my support bars. I didn’t have what I needed on hand.

Sanding

After everything is secured, make sure to wipe up any excess glue and let cure for at least 24 hours. I then used my jig saw and a wire brush attachment to rough up my bench (Images below). When I finished the aging process, I sanded it all down using a progression of 80 grit, then 120 grit, then 220 grit sandpaper (The lower number will have more grit, the higher the number, the smoother your grit will be).

Higher grit sandpaper is for sanding out deep scratches/grooves. If you use high grit sandpaper, you will need to progress slowly to a smoother grit (Higher number) to smooth the wood out thoroughly.

Stain

Wipe your bench down well after sanding to make sure there is no dust or debris left before staining and sealing. Now for the stain, I used a mixture of Minwax Driftwood and Weathered Oak to get the aged look that I was going for. I ended up doing two coats and letting it dry completely. Please make sure to wear a mask and do this in a well ventilated area to limit inhalation of the fumes.

Sealing

Once my bench was dry, I sealed it with Minwax Wipe-On Poly with a clear satin finish. To use this product, use a cloth (make sure it doesn’t lint) to wipe on the product. Using a cloth will help prevent drips or brush marks. This is fast drying and typically is dry within two hours. Once the first coat is dry, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Remove the dust and then apply the finish. You’ll want to apply at least two coats to achieve that even sheen.

And that is it folks! Are you ready to go build your own DIY aged bench? If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out by clicking here! Love this? Be sure to tell me in the comments below!

Disclaimer

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.

Do It Yourself | Half Bathroom Renovation

This was the most last minute renovation ever! I decided to renovate this bathroom when we decided to put our house up on the market. Our realtor was walking through our house, making a list of her recommendations and stopped at this room. She asked very politely, “are you planning on updating this room?” Well, I wasn’t but I hear what you are saying! The picture above is the “after” photo. Here is the before:

I don’t think I have EVER moved as fast on a project as I did with this room. This entire renovation took me about four or five days to complete.

Here is what happened in this room:

  • Removed wood floor and installed tile
  • Installed new light fixture
  • Painted walls and ceiling
  • Installed new vanity
  • Replaced electrical outlet and light switch
  • Installed new sink and faucet
  • Installed new vanity mirror
  • Added tile backsplash around toilet
  • Installed shelving above toilet
  • Added new baseboards
  • Installed new toilet

This half-bathroom renovation cost just under $1000 and only took four days to complete. Partly because I knew what I was doing this time around. I didn’t have to stop and research how to do anything, which saved me SOOOO much time! You know how empowering that feels to finally feel like I know what I’m doing? … a little 😅.

I wanted to remove the wood floor in there because the gapping between each floor board was more than a quarter inch and not to mention, it was collecting all kinds of gunk! 🤢 For this reason, it had to go.

For the purpose of waterproofing, tile is better in my opinion for wet areas like bathrooms and laundry rooms.

The Process

To begin the process in this room my husband and I removed the toilet followed by the vanity. Then we proceeded remove the wood flooring using a pry bar. Be sure to remove any nails left in the subfloor. Next, we painted the walls and ceiling and then waterproofed the area with Mapei’s Aquadefense: https://amzn.to/37d7QPGa

After measuring the depth of the transition where the wood floor would meet the tile, I then realized that my tile and wood floor would not be level. As a result, I decided to just go with the Hardie Backer cement board. In light of the extra work, this room is extra waterproofed! This room has no natural light, so I went with white walls and a light grey tile to brighten it up.

All things considered, I am so glad that we decided to do this last minute renovation. As a result, our house had so many viewings right out of the gate and had a full price cash offer on the sixth day of being on the market!

In conclusion, sometimes putting in that extra bit of hard work really pays off.

Be sure to follow along on social media, links below, for all of the behind the scenes action! FYI, all of my tutorials, tips, how to’s are always saved to my highlights on instagram. Have questions? Head over to my contact page and shoot me a question!

https://blackhorseandacherrytreefarm.com/contact/

Disclaimer

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety. 

DIY Your Own Basket Light

How to Make a Basket Light For Less Than $40

Let me show you how to make your very own basket light for less than $40. Presently, basket lights have been trending and I have been wanting one SOOOOOO bad. However, when I started searching for a fixture that I liked, I wasn’t loving the price tag that came with it. See below

Can you believe that?!? No thanks! As a result, I started searching for baskets that I could transform. I’ve made light fixtures before and knew it wouldn’t be difficult. I found a basket a Hobby Lobby when they were having a 50% off sale and bought mine for $25! Additionally, Home Goods, TJ Max, and Marshalls are all great places to find cheap baskets as well. Then I started searching for a pendant light kit at local hardware stores and subsequently ended up finding what I wanted on Amazon, which is linked below.

Links and Materials

Although I could not link my exact basket, I did link another option. I found this adorable basket on Amazon. All you would need to do is remove the handles! Anyways, the basket and light kit was all that I needed to purchase to make this light fixture, the rest of the supplies I already had on hand. (Materials listed below). To make this for even less, just look around your house for a basket you love and see if you can transform it into a light fixture!

Questions I have been asked about this DIY: Is it safe? Yes, as long as the bulb is not actually touching the basket, you are good to go. I was worried about this as well and tested it by leaving the light on all day and checked the basket for heat. Guess what? NO HEAT!! In fact, if you refer to the images below, you will see that the bulb itself does not actually come into contact with the basket.

Materials Needed:

  • Basket of your choosing
  • Pendant light kit (which comes with a mounting bracket)
  • Heavy duty shears
  • Measuring tape
  • Marker
  1. To get started, measure the center of the bottom of the basket and mark it with your marker.

2. Then, you will outline where your light kit will go with your marker

3. Then, you will use your shears to cut a hole just big enough for the light bulb socket to fit through.

4. Lastly, after you have cut your hole, fit the light bulb socket into the hole all the way to the base of the mount and then proceed to screw on the shade ring onto the bulb socket.

In short, the shade ring will hold the weight of the fixture and will prevent the basket from falling off of the bulb socket. To illustrate this, refer to the below image.

In summary, this is probably the most approachable DIY for beginners. It took me less than 15 minutes to put this together. If you aren’t particularly comfortable attempting this with a hard wired light kit, they do sell light kits that have plugs on them as well.

In addition, if you mess it up, you can just fill the basket with something and use it as decor instead! The most important thing for you to remember, above all, don’t be afraid to try new things, we all fail at some point, but there is always a way to fix it. As Walt Disney would say “If you can visualize it, if you can dream it, there’s some way to do it”.

Reach out

Have questions? Reach out by submitting your question on my contact form.

DISCLAIMER

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.

One Room Challenge | Master Bedroom Week 1

_______________________________________________________________________________________________

May 5, 2021

I am so so excited to be starting week one of this one room challenge (ORC)! I decided to enter to be a guest participant because:

  1. Doing challenges gives me a deadline and helps me stay on task and motivated
  2. Doing this challenge alongside others is so incredibly inspiring and gives me that sense of community!

I have been planning on renovating our master bedroom for awhile now but it was always lowest on my priority list. Not to mention, the water damage incident that we had back in October didn’t help the budget and set us back quite a bit. I am so ready to get this started… I may or may not be working on the laundry room still, but hey, can I even call myself a DIYer if I don’t have multiple projects going on at once? I will be doing this project by myself with my own two hands! My husband is very supportive and is ALWAYS willing to help, but I truly enjoy doing these projects alone. It is my hobby and my time to clear my head.

Better Homes & Gardens: One Room Challenge

So a little information on the ORC: the ORC starts today, May 5, 2021, there are 20 featured designers along with guest participants that will have eight weeks to complete their room to reveal on June 24-27. So exciting, right?!? My room doesn’t look that bad in this picture, but I have a pretty big overhaul planned for this room. After doing the laundry room though, this shouldn’t be that bad! Let me show you my moodboard for this room so that you have a visual:

The Plan

My plan for this room: replace the broken fan light with either a basket light or a cement light fixture… haven’t quite decided yet; painting walls and ceiling, I will be keeping my current bed but building on to it to turn it into a poster bed, adding faux beams, adding a cement accent wall, building a bench for the end of the bed, replacing the flooring, and adding new trim! Phew… Can we get this done in eight weeks?? Fingers crossed my friends. Let’s take a look at some before photos.

This photo was taken before we moved in. Pros: HUGE room to work with, we have 288 sq ft in this room! Cons: the flooring looks great in this picture but is in less than ideal condition. The color looks brighter than it is, it is that beautiful builder’s beige, so bring in the paint!

This wall will be getting the cement accent wall. I was very torn between the cement wall and a board and baton wall, and to be honest, I’m still second guessing myself. The surf board will be coming down and will be moved over the exterior door (Not shown).

As you can see here, I’ve already started painting and hung the TV here. I found that adorable console table on Overstock!
Sorry folks, that elliptical isn’t going anywhere. I wouldn’t use it if it weren’t inside…

So, are you as ready as I am to just dive right in and get this started? Will this inspire YOU to tackle a project that’s been collecting dust on your to do list? I sure hope so! Be sure to check out all of the featured designers and the other guest participants: http://www.oneroomchallenge.com/orc-blog/so

Have questions? Reach out using my contact form. https://blackhorseandacherrytreefarm.com/contact/

DISCLAIMER

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.

DIY Laundry Room Reno

Isn’t she lovely? I’m talking about that laundry room! Just take a moment to appreciate everything here. Here is a list of what I did in this room:

  • Tiled the floor
  • Tiled the Backsplash
  • Removed the Fluorescent light and added a pendant basket light (Which I hand made!) and recessed lighting
  • Painted the cabinets Escape Grey by Sherwin Williams and added pulls
  • Built up the cabinets to the ceiling
  • Removed the old sink and countertop and added new Laminate countertop (You can get GORGEOUS laminate these days and you seriously can’t beat the price!)
  • Added a little sparkle with my champagne bronze faucet
  • Built a wall around the furnace and added closet doors for ventilation and easy access (Plus, no more eye sore!)
  • Built a built-in shelf with the left over countertop to the left over the trash compactor (I mean, why not? I can’t let that countertop go to waste, and its soooo nice having the extra space)
  • Replaced our water heater with a tankless water heater (okay, this I called a professional for because it required extra power and I wasn’t going to fumble along on something this serious) Side note on the tankless water heater, super nice but sooo many hidden costs with it, like hiring an electrician to run a new line to the breaker box $$$)
  • Currently: building a cabinet to go over the hot water heater so there will be absolutely no eye sore in this room
  • Built a shelf to go over the washer and dryer
  • Built a little tray to go over my sink with some scrap wood!
  • Removed the base cabinet next to the washer and moved it over to where the hot water heater was so I could have an empty space to store a roll out laundry hamper
  • Finally, added new trim

Now…. Let’s go back to the beginning and take a look at what we started with, shall we?

Yikes!!! This room would make anyone run for the hills and NEVER want to do laundry. I used to cringe every time I’d have company over or I would walk into this room. Can you blame me? The fluorescent lighting, vinyl yellow flooring, vomit laminate countertops, the stained utility sink, and walking in to see the furnace and hot water heater (hidden to the right). I know this is better than some laundry rooms as is, believe me, I’ve had worse. Like, a laundry room in a Michigan basement… now THAT is scary! But, I knew that if I just put in a little elbow grease, this room could be breathtaking!

You ask, “Who cares, it’s just a laundry room?” Well, I spend HOURS in this room every day, so mama needs a little glam! This room has been exceptionally challenging for me. I learned how to do things that I have NEVER done before… I hope knowing that I have never attempted most of this before, motivates you all to try doing this yourself! Because, if I can do this, literally ANYONE can! I won’t lie, this was a very labor intensive project and made my brain hurt thinking about the math that went into building the wall with a closet door and building up the cabinets. But, the satisfaction that I have now, knowing that I FREAKING DID ALL OF THIS, was WAAAAYYYYY worth it. I now have a sense of pride and confidence in myself that I did not have before. Plus, every time I walk by the room, I am seriously smiling from ear to ear.

This wall and those cabinets were built by yours truly!
You can most certainly tile over your vinyl flooring. I am laying mortar down to install my hardie backer cement board. Don’t forget your Backer-On screws! https://amzn.to/3BRVA5r
Building a cabinet to hide the tankless water heater. There will be NO eye sore in this room! The only tricky part will be building the cabinet doors… I have never done this and will keep you updated.
To remove your laminate countertop, look for the screws inside the base cabinet. Mine was only held on by the screws so I was able to just lift it up and out. You will need to score around the sink or wherever you see silicone with a utility knife to break the seal first.

Have questions? Ask me a question on my contact form below:

https://blackhorseandacherrytreefarm.com/contact/?amp=1

DISCLAIMER

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.