DIY Aged Bench

This aged bench was a fun weekend project and is an easy woodworking project for beginners! The best part is, because it is meant to look aged, it doesn’t have to be perfect!

Material List: I used select pine for this project

  • 1: 2 x 12 x 8
  • 1: 2 x 4 x 8
  • 1: 2 x 2 x 4 hobby board
  • I did not use this, but you can add a 2 x 4 or 2 x 2 on the bottom as well
  • 2 1/2″ pocket screws or 3″ wood screws (Depending on how you are securing it)
  • Wood glue, I used Titebond
  • Wire brush attachment

Cut List:

  • I wanted my bench to fall short of my king sized bed so I cut my 2 x 12 to 60″
  • Legs: 2 x 4 cut parallel at a 10 degree beveled angles x 4 (Shown in image A)
  • I wanted a total height of 20 inches ( the 2 x 12 is actually 1.5″) so cut the legs at 18.5″
  • Once assembled, I determined where I wanted my 2 x 2 support to be placed and cut them perpendicular at 10 degrees
A: Ends bevel cut and parallel. These should be flush so the bench does not wobble.

Leg Placement

Next, after completing your cut list, you’ll then want to determine leg placement on your seat part of the bench (the 2 x 12 x 60). You can refer to images below for placement. For my bench, I placed my legs 8″ in from the ends and 2″ in from the sides. Use your speed square to ensure they are straight. (Ignore my disaster of a garage please)

Securing the Legs

Next, determine how you want to secure your legs to your bench. I decided to use pocket holes but you can screw in from the top of the bench into the legs. I just didn’t want screw holes on the top of my bench. Mark off where you are placing the legs using your straight edge or speed square.

Remember, I went 8 inches in from the ends and 2 inches in from the sides (image B). I then used my kreg jig to create pocket holes on the insides of the legs (image C). Finally, I used wood glue at the points where the wood was contacting wood (image D).

Image B
Image C
Image D

Then, I secured the legs with my pocket screws (Image E). One thing I love about kreg jig, is they make it fool proof. The screws that come with kreg jigs have a guide on the bottom of the box to help you determine what size you will need. They recommended for a depth of 1 1/2″ to use 2 1/2″ pocket screws. You can refer to image F below. Be sure to wipe away any excess glue.

Image E
Image F

Placing the Support Bar

Once all four legs have been secured, you can determine placement of your support bars. I held up my 2 x 2 against the legs with firm pressure with a level on top and just eyeballed where I wanted it to go. I marked the inside of the 2 x 2, making sure it stayed level and in place (image G). I’m sure there are better and more mathematical ways to approach this, but I’m terrible at math and this worked out just fine. Plus, its aged guys, it doesn’t need to be perfect!

Securing the Support Bar

One tip to remember though, if your legs are at 10 degrees, the support will be at 10 degrees 😉. Cut your support perpendicular, or just follow your marks. Once cut, use this as a guide for your second support. Measure exactly where this will be secured and mark all four of your legs. Secure the supports with wood glue and 2 1/2″ or 3″ wood screws. Be sure to make pilot holes to avoid spitting the wood!

Image G
I used 3″ trim nails to secure my support bars. I didn’t have what I needed on hand.

Sanding

After everything is secured, make sure to wipe up any excess glue and let cure for at least 24 hours. I then used my jig saw and a wire brush attachment to rough up my bench (Images below). When I finished the aging process, I sanded it all down using a progression of 80 grit, then 120 grit, then 220 grit sandpaper (The lower number will have more grit, the higher the number, the smoother your grit will be).

Higher grit sandpaper is for sanding out deep scratches/grooves. If you use high grit sandpaper, you will need to progress slowly to a smoother grit (Higher number) to smooth the wood out thoroughly.

Stain

Wipe your bench down well after sanding to make sure there is no dust or debris left before staining and sealing. Now for the stain, I used a mixture of Minwax Driftwood and Weathered Oak to get the aged look that I was going for. I ended up doing two coats and letting it dry completely. Please make sure to wear a mask and do this in a well ventilated area to limit inhalation of the fumes.

Sealing

Once my bench was dry, I sealed it with Minwax Wipe-On Poly with a clear satin finish. To use this product, use a cloth (make sure it doesn’t lint) to wipe on the product. Using a cloth will help prevent drips or brush marks. This is fast drying and typically is dry within two hours. Once the first coat is dry, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Remove the dust and then apply the finish. You’ll want to apply at least two coats to achieve that even sheen.

And that is it folks! Are you ready to go build your own DIY aged bench? If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out by clicking here! Love this? Be sure to tell me in the comments below!

Disclaimer

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.

Do It Yourself | Half Bathroom Renovation

This was the most last minute renovation ever! I decided to renovate this bathroom when we decided to put our house up on the market. Our realtor was walking through our house, making a list of her recommendations and stopped at this room. She asked very politely, “are you planning on updating this room?” Well, I wasn’t but I hear what you are saying! The picture above is the “after” photo. Here is the before:

I don’t think I have EVER moved as fast on a project as I did with this room. This entire renovation took me about four or five days to complete.

Here is what happened in this room:

  • Removed wood floor and installed tile
  • Installed new light fixture
  • Painted walls and ceiling
  • Installed new vanity
  • Replaced electrical outlet and light switch
  • Installed new sink and faucet
  • Installed new vanity mirror
  • Added tile backsplash around toilet
  • Installed shelving above toilet
  • Added new baseboards
  • Installed new toilet

This half-bathroom renovation cost just under $1000 and only took four days to complete. Partly because I knew what I was doing this time around. I didn’t have to stop and research how to do anything, which saved me SOOOO much time! You know how empowering that feels to finally feel like I know what I’m doing? … a little 😅.

I wanted to remove the wood floor in there because the gapping between each floor board was more than a quarter inch and not to mention, it was collecting all kinds of gunk! 🤢 For this reason, it had to go.

For the purpose of waterproofing, tile is better in my opinion for wet areas like bathrooms and laundry rooms.

The Process

To begin the process in this room my husband and I removed the toilet followed by the vanity. Then we proceeded remove the wood flooring using a pry bar. Be sure to remove any nails left in the subfloor. Next, we painted the walls and ceiling and then waterproofed the area with Mapei’s Aquadefense: https://amzn.to/37d7QPGa

After measuring the depth of the transition where the wood floor would meet the tile, I then realized that my tile and wood floor would not be level. As a result, I decided to just go with the Hardie Backer cement board. In light of the extra work, this room is extra waterproofed! This room has no natural light, so I went with white walls and a light grey tile to brighten it up.

All things considered, I am so glad that we decided to do this last minute renovation. As a result, our house had so many viewings right out of the gate and had a full price cash offer on the sixth day of being on the market!

In conclusion, sometimes putting in that extra bit of hard work really pays off.

Be sure to follow along on social media, links below, for all of the behind the scenes action! FYI, all of my tutorials, tips, how to’s are always saved to my highlights on instagram. Have questions? Head over to my contact page and shoot me a question!

https://blackhorseandacherrytreefarm.com/contact/

Disclaimer

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety. 

DIY Your Own Basket Light

How to Make a Basket Light For Less Than $40

Let me show you how to make your very own basket light for less than $40. Presently, basket lights have been trending and I have been wanting one SOOOOOO bad. However, when I started searching for a fixture that I liked, I wasn’t loving the price tag that came with it. See below

Can you believe that?!? No thanks! As a result, I started searching for baskets that I could transform. I’ve made light fixtures before and knew it wouldn’t be difficult. I found a basket a Hobby Lobby when they were having a 50% off sale and bought mine for $25! Additionally, Home Goods, TJ Max, and Marshalls are all great places to find cheap baskets as well. Then I started searching for a pendant light kit at local hardware stores and subsequently ended up finding what I wanted on Amazon, which is linked below.

Links and Materials

Although I could not link my exact basket, I did link another option. I found this adorable basket on Amazon. All you would need to do is remove the handles! Anyways, the basket and light kit was all that I needed to purchase to make this light fixture, the rest of the supplies I already had on hand. (Materials listed below). To make this for even less, just look around your house for a basket you love and see if you can transform it into a light fixture!

Questions I have been asked about this DIY: Is it safe? Yes, as long as the bulb is not actually touching the basket, you are good to go. I was worried about this as well and tested it by leaving the light on all day and checked the basket for heat. Guess what? NO HEAT!! In fact, if you refer to the images below, you will see that the bulb itself does not actually come into contact with the basket.

Materials Needed:

  • Basket of your choosing
  • Pendant light kit (which comes with a mounting bracket)
  • Heavy duty shears
  • Measuring tape
  • Marker
  1. To get started, measure the center of the bottom of the basket and mark it with your marker.

2. Then, you will outline where your light kit will go with your marker

3. Then, you will use your shears to cut a hole just big enough for the light bulb socket to fit through.

4. Lastly, after you have cut your hole, fit the light bulb socket into the hole all the way to the base of the mount and then proceed to screw on the shade ring onto the bulb socket.

In short, the shade ring will hold the weight of the fixture and will prevent the basket from falling off of the bulb socket. To illustrate this, refer to the below image.

In summary, this is probably the most approachable DIY for beginners. It took me less than 15 minutes to put this together. If you aren’t particularly comfortable attempting this with a hard wired light kit, they do sell light kits that have plugs on them as well.

In addition, if you mess it up, you can just fill the basket with something and use it as decor instead! The most important thing for you to remember, above all, don’t be afraid to try new things, we all fail at some point, but there is always a way to fix it. As Walt Disney would say “If you can visualize it, if you can dream it, there’s some way to do it”.

Reach out

Have questions? Reach out by submitting your question on my contact form.

DISCLAIMER

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.

One Room Challenge | Master Bedroom Reveal

Here it is, the master bedroom reveal! Better late than never, right? So this wasn’t the grand reveal I was hoping for, but I still love the new look. As you can see, I’ve been absent since Week 4 of the ORC and here is why…. You ready for it??

WE ARE MOVING!!!! 😆

In the middle of all the renovation chaos, we were like “I kind of think we should go look at this historic home”, and by we I mean my mother-in-law and me! (We are trouble when we are together) Next thing you know, we listed our house for sale and had a full price cash offer on the sixth day on the market. Can you believe that?!?! During the listing period I also took on renovating our master bathroom and half bathroom as well… Do you see now why I haven’t been posting on the blog? 😅😂

The flooring did not come in time, which ended up being a blessing in disguise. We were originally just going to replace the flooring one room at a time. If I had started that, I would’ve had to come up with $$$$ to finish it and then install it myself! The timing would not have worked out, so thank you shipping delays!! The beams didn’t show up till reveal day so I’m just going to take them to our new house and find a place for them there.

Why We Are Moving

We decided to move for several reasons. The first being that this property is just not suitable for our horses. I have nowhere to work them and they have no pasture. When we bought this house last year, I didn’t realize that the pasture was not safe for them (Rookie). Second, we don’t have the money to hire a crew to maintain a proper fire break around the house, so Josh has been doing this all by hand.

The land is too steep in most areas for our tractor to get to. I tried helping him this spring but I am severely allergic to poison oak and had a huge break out that required four weeks of steroids. As Ella gets older, she has become so attached to her “Nini” (grandma), and we want to be closer to her.

I will miss our incredible views on top of our little Madrone Mountain but I am VERY excited for our next adventure. Flipping this house in one year provided us with this opportunity to move into a gorgeous little farmhouse less than a mile from our beloved Nini and Pops.

Let my DIYs be a lesson to you all. Sometimes, when you put in a little (or a LOT) of elbow grease, it pays off in the end and opens bigger and better doors for you. You just have to jump in and do it!

Be sure to follow along on instagram for behind the scenes and daily life in stories. Links provided in image captions! The rug is linked on my Links and Discounts page, head over there to get yourself 10% off, and yes, it is WASHABLE!

Check out the before and after shots below

Here’s a link to our bed frame: https://amzn.to/3zQtPIx
Link to Nightstand: https://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Carbon-Loft-Mulgrew-Distressed-Walnut-Nightstand/27742985/product.html
Link to the sconce: https://www.overstock.com/Lighting-Ceiling-Fans/Copper-Grove-Leighton-1-light-Copper-Bronze-Swing-Arm-Wall-Lamp/20461187/product.html
Link to Loveseat: https://www.furniturerow.com/pd/Durango-Loveseat/prod2220117

Have Questions? Reach out by using the contact form. https://blackhorseandacherrytreefarm.com/contact/

One Room Challenge | Master Bedroom Week 4

So far, this week has not been nearly as productive with this room as last week was. But, progress is progress, right?!? I did manage to finish painting the bed and got all of the joint compound and paint off of the floor. Who out there do I send straight into a panic attack with my messy painting habits? 😅 Honestly, if I didn’t have my steam mop to fix all of my mistakes, I would be more careful. I have never been one to take my time and prep the area before starting 😬. Call it lazy if you want but when I get motivated, I just jump right in and go for it.

Besides painting the bed and cleaning up a horrendous mess 👇🏽

I did manage to take down the headache of a chandelier and returned it. I am ordering a new (different) chandelier for this room. I did learn that there is some logic to picking out a light fixture with consideration to size. What you want to do is add together the length and width of your room in feet and the sum is your total diameter in inches (This room is 16 ft x 18 ft) so, 16 + 18 = 34. My chandelier’s maximum diameter for this room should be 34 inches… This chandelier pictured above was 47 inches! It just made the room look off balance and I was NOT liking it.

My plans for this weekend include cleaning the garage so that I can finally finishing building up the bed into a poster bed and build a bench to go in front of the bed. I am using the plans by Nicole @hillhousediaries has in her highlights. It is adorable and I think will really tie this look together.

Nicole’s bench @hillhousediaries
My poster bed build plans

Be sure to check out all of the other incredible men and women guest participants and featured designers for the #oneroomchallenge! http://www.oneroomchallenge.com/orc-blog.

One Room Challenge | Master Bedroom Week 3

Okay, so I’m a week late at posting the Week 3 update. Sometimes, life gets crazy. I’m sure some of you can relate to that. This week was a doozy to say the least and we ran in to some complications with that chandelier. To start off, the chandelier arrived to Home Depot damaged, I looked through the box to see if it was salvageable and it all looked okay, so I decided to take it home and give it a go. The instructions were super vague so I was on my own with this one. The first problem came about with the wiring, every wire nut they sent with the fixture was made cheap and didn’t bite onto the wires appropriately. The second problem was the parallel wiring, which I had to phone a friend on because I had never heard this term before. But, it was simple, all of the black wires connect to the black wires, and all of the white wires connect to the white wires. The next step was to connect it to the power source….. This is where we struggled. The screws that came with the fixture to connect to the bracket were too short, so the nuts didn’t even come into contact with the screws. I think we made three different trips to Lowes as we were working on this to find better quality supplies. After three days of both my husband and I working on this light fixture, we finally got it up and working, except not all of the lights worked. Remember all of those loose fitting wire nuts? This is where they shined. Even after replacing the wire nuts that connected to each and every candle light, there were still five lights that did not work (Pictured below). This is where I finally came to terms with the fact that this fixture was junk and I should exchange it for something else. After all of the blood, sweat, and tears that went into this fixture, I just took it down and returned it. It ended up being too big for the room as well. In the end, I wanted to be in love with every detail in this room, and I just wasn’t loving it. We will try again with something else that hopefully we will LOVE!

Okay, so aside from the chandelier fiasco, Josh helped me finish and fine tune that GORGEOUS faux cement accent wall that you see there! It was not as difficult as you would think, time consuming, but not difficult.

Faux Cement Wall

You want to get three buckets to work from, joint compound, cement dye (Pictured Below) and a drywall taping knife. It mixes best with a mortar mixer attachment for your drill.

Divide the joint compound between the three buckets. You are going to want to have a light, medium, and dark color to blend. I reserved more joint compound for the darker color. It all depends on what look you are going for, I wanted a darker wall, so I used more dark than light. Important tip to remember, it will dry far lighter than you expect! Mix the joint compound with water and SLOWLY add small amounts of color until you get the desired color you are looking for. Mix each bucket for about five minutes. Now you are ready to tackle that wall! Start with your darkest color first and then blend in your medium and light coats before allowing it all to dry. This is where I made a mistake, I allowed my first coat to dry and then tried blending the other two colors… this did not work (Pictured below) It came out WAY lighter than I wanted, so I had to start over! The second time around, my husband Josh came in to help as he could see that I was VERY frustrated. Minimal light and medium were used to blend in with the dark coat to get a more natural look. You will want to keep your rough ridges, it adds to the effect.

First time fail to the right, starting over with a darker look to the left.

Patience comes in handy with this project because you really have to wait 24 hours to allow this wall to completely dry before you know what you have. But after two days and two tries later, we ended up with something we truly love now. Just look at the detail below!! The picture is unfortunately not doing this wall justice.

Other projects completed this week:

  • Replaced all of the brown electrical outlets and switches with white
  • Replaced all doorknobs and hinges
  • Started painting the bed using matte venetian bronze and building the arms for the poster build up
  • Installed the sconces
  • Put together the new nightstands
  • Finished painting the walls
  • Finished repairing the wall with the TV mount with joint compound and knockdown

I think that’s plenty for one week, don’t you?!? Please be sure to check out all of the other incredible men and women participating in the One Room Challenge! http://www.oneroomchallenge.com/orc-blog

One Room Challenge | Master Bedroom Week 2

Let’s Talk Paint

Choosing a paint color has actually been one of my weaknesses. I can’t tell you how many times I have painted a room only to find out that I don’t love the color. I mean, I just painted my kitchen… TWICE within a few weeks and I still am not happy with it. Let me tell you what I have learned from my mistakes.

Let’s start off by talking about whether or not you should paint your ceiling white or a color. I am currently painting my master bedroom, as one of the many to do’s for this room for the one room challenge. I started with the decision to paint my ceiling white. Here is what I learned about how to decide if you should paint your ceiling white or not.

To Paint your Ceiling or Not

Painting your ceiling white has been first choice for decades because it is a safe option. Typically, you will want to choose a flat sheen for your paint, as this will help hide imperfections. Here are some simple rules to follow regarding painting your ceiling white:

  • If your ceiling is textured (like mine is) or has many imperfections. A white flat paint will help make your room look seamless and hide all of those imperfections.
  • If your room has low lighting or minimal natural light. White paint helps reflect light and will make it seem brighter.
  • If you are going for a simplistic main living space.
  • If you have a lot of contrasting or bright colors in the room. Painting the ceiling white will help tone down the color and you will avoid clashing with the other colors in the room.

I decided to paint my Master Bedroom with a flat white ceiling and the walls will end up being Alabaster by Sherwin Williams. One of my walls will be accented by a faux cement look (Step by step instructions will be coming soon!). Can you tell that I love my neutrals? I personally love that minimalistic style and will throw in small pops of color with my decor.

Back to paint

If you do decide to paint your ceiling and walls the same color (this look works best if your ceiling is flat), it is typically best to paint your ceiling two shades lighter than your walls. If you do have a flat ceiling though, painting your walls and ceiling the same color will give you that seamless look and helps the eye focus more on the furnishings.

Choosing the right white

First off, you should know that there are three types of whites to think about here: cool whites, warm whites, and pure whites. Before picking between the three types of whites, I want you to take a good look at your room. What does the palette look like? Do you have cooler hues in the room, such as blues or greens? For rooms with these types of colors, you are probably going to want to stick with a cool white, as this will complement the colors in your room.

Warm Whites

Furthermore, does your room have browns, yellows, reds, or wood tones within the furnishings? If yes, then choose a warm white for that natural flow.

Pure Whites

Finally the pure whites. Pure whites work well in those modern, rustic, or traditional spaces. Pure whites typically don’t have much undertone to them, so you can go right ahead and choose those bright and bold furnishings without the worry of it clashing with your paint choices.

Pictured above: Left middle is a “Pure white”. The rest of the whites I selected are “warm whites”. This is where my mistakes in the past came in. Before I knew that there were pure, warm, and cool whites and how to select between the three, I would always lean towards cool whites. But…. All of my furnishings are warm tones 🙃. So its no wonder why I was never happy with my paint selection!

Why I like neutrals

I also like staying neutral because, well, we move a lot! No, we’re not military. I moved a lot when I was a child and never really felt settled and I think that has carried over into my adulthood. I’m a little nomadic at heart and have never really been tied to any one place. Because of this, I’ve learned that neutral homes sell faster than bright and bold colors.

Plans for the rest of this week and next week:
  • Finish Painting the Ceiling
  • Start painting the walls
  • Start on Faux Cement accent wall
  • Finish building the faux beams
The Plan

Below is an updated plan/mood board for the One Room Challenge. Changes include the beams, sconces, nightstands, and light fixture. I priced out how much it would be for two pre-made faux beams… $1600!!! Um, no thanks! So I decided to attempt to tackle this on my own with using: 1 x 10 x 8’s and 1 x 6 x 8’s, I’ve already ran into issues, like the angles on the ceiling and making a spline to join these together.

Thanks for reading friends! Please be sure to follow the link to check out what all of the other guest participants and featured designers are up to for week two of this One Room Challenge! https://www.oneroomchallenge.com/blog/orcspring2021wk2

Have questions? Reach out using my contact form: https://blackhorseandacherrytreefarm.com/contact/?amp=1

One Room Challenge | Master Bedroom Week 1

_______________________________________________________________________________________________

May 5, 2021

I am so so excited to be starting week one of this one room challenge (ORC)! I decided to enter to be a guest participant because:

  1. Doing challenges gives me a deadline and helps me stay on task and motivated
  2. Doing this challenge alongside others is so incredibly inspiring and gives me that sense of community!

I have been planning on renovating our master bedroom for awhile now but it was always lowest on my priority list. Not to mention, the water damage incident that we had back in October didn’t help the budget and set us back quite a bit. I am so ready to get this started… I may or may not be working on the laundry room still, but hey, can I even call myself a DIYer if I don’t have multiple projects going on at once? I will be doing this project by myself with my own two hands! My husband is very supportive and is ALWAYS willing to help, but I truly enjoy doing these projects alone. It is my hobby and my time to clear my head.

Better Homes & Gardens: One Room Challenge

So a little information on the ORC: the ORC starts today, May 5, 2021, there are 20 featured designers along with guest participants that will have eight weeks to complete their room to reveal on June 24-27. So exciting, right?!? My room doesn’t look that bad in this picture, but I have a pretty big overhaul planned for this room. After doing the laundry room though, this shouldn’t be that bad! Let me show you my moodboard for this room so that you have a visual:

The Plan

My plan for this room: replace the broken fan light with either a basket light or a cement light fixture… haven’t quite decided yet; painting walls and ceiling, I will be keeping my current bed but building on to it to turn it into a poster bed, adding faux beams, adding a cement accent wall, building a bench for the end of the bed, replacing the flooring, and adding new trim! Phew… Can we get this done in eight weeks?? Fingers crossed my friends. Let’s take a look at some before photos.

This photo was taken before we moved in. Pros: HUGE room to work with, we have 288 sq ft in this room! Cons: the flooring looks great in this picture but is in less than ideal condition. The color looks brighter than it is, it is that beautiful builder’s beige, so bring in the paint!

This wall will be getting the cement accent wall. I was very torn between the cement wall and a board and baton wall, and to be honest, I’m still second guessing myself. The surf board will be coming down and will be moved over the exterior door (Not shown).

As you can see here, I’ve already started painting and hung the TV here. I found that adorable console table on Overstock!
Sorry folks, that elliptical isn’t going anywhere. I wouldn’t use it if it weren’t inside…

So, are you as ready as I am to just dive right in and get this started? Will this inspire YOU to tackle a project that’s been collecting dust on your to do list? I sure hope so! Be sure to check out all of the featured designers and the other guest participants: http://www.oneroomchallenge.com/orc-blog/so

Have questions? Reach out using my contact form. https://blackhorseandacherrytreefarm.com/contact/

DISCLAIMER

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.

DIY Laundry Room Reno

Isn’t she lovely? I’m talking about that laundry room! Just take a moment to appreciate everything here. Here is a list of what I did in this room:

  • Tiled the floor
  • Tiled the Backsplash
  • Removed the Fluorescent light and added a pendant basket light (Which I hand made!) and recessed lighting
  • Painted the cabinets Escape Grey by Sherwin Williams and added pulls
  • Built up the cabinets to the ceiling
  • Removed the old sink and countertop and added new Laminate countertop (You can get GORGEOUS laminate these days and you seriously can’t beat the price!)
  • Added a little sparkle with my champagne bronze faucet
  • Built a wall around the furnace and added closet doors for ventilation and easy access (Plus, no more eye sore!)
  • Built a built-in shelf with the left over countertop to the left over the trash compactor (I mean, why not? I can’t let that countertop go to waste, and its soooo nice having the extra space)
  • Replaced our water heater with a tankless water heater (okay, this I called a professional for because it required extra power and I wasn’t going to fumble along on something this serious) Side note on the tankless water heater, super nice but sooo many hidden costs with it, like hiring an electrician to run a new line to the breaker box $$$)
  • Currently: building a cabinet to go over the hot water heater so there will be absolutely no eye sore in this room
  • Built a shelf to go over the washer and dryer
  • Built a little tray to go over my sink with some scrap wood!
  • Removed the base cabinet next to the washer and moved it over to where the hot water heater was so I could have an empty space to store a roll out laundry hamper
  • Finally, added new trim

Now…. Let’s go back to the beginning and take a look at what we started with, shall we?

Yikes!!! This room would make anyone run for the hills and NEVER want to do laundry. I used to cringe every time I’d have company over or I would walk into this room. Can you blame me? The fluorescent lighting, vinyl yellow flooring, vomit laminate countertops, the stained utility sink, and walking in to see the furnace and hot water heater (hidden to the right). I know this is better than some laundry rooms as is, believe me, I’ve had worse. Like, a laundry room in a Michigan basement… now THAT is scary! But, I knew that if I just put in a little elbow grease, this room could be breathtaking!

You ask, “Who cares, it’s just a laundry room?” Well, I spend HOURS in this room every day, so mama needs a little glam! This room has been exceptionally challenging for me. I learned how to do things that I have NEVER done before… I hope knowing that I have never attempted most of this before, motivates you all to try doing this yourself! Because, if I can do this, literally ANYONE can! I won’t lie, this was a very labor intensive project and made my brain hurt thinking about the math that went into building the wall with a closet door and building up the cabinets. But, the satisfaction that I have now, knowing that I FREAKING DID ALL OF THIS, was WAAAAYYYYY worth it. I now have a sense of pride and confidence in myself that I did not have before. Plus, every time I walk by the room, I am seriously smiling from ear to ear.

This wall and those cabinets were built by yours truly!
You can most certainly tile over your vinyl flooring. I am laying mortar down to install my hardie backer cement board. Don’t forget your Backer-On screws! https://amzn.to/3BRVA5r
Building a cabinet to hide the tankless water heater. There will be NO eye sore in this room! The only tricky part will be building the cabinet doors… I have never done this and will keep you updated.
To remove your laminate countertop, look for the screws inside the base cabinet. Mine was only held on by the screws so I was able to just lift it up and out. You will need to score around the sink or wherever you see silicone with a utility knife to break the seal first.

Have questions? Ask me a question on my contact form below:

https://blackhorseandacherrytreefarm.com/contact/?amp=1

DISCLAIMER

Please use proper safety precautions and do appropriate research when attempting projects. You are responsible for your own safety.